Hiyu Tzum Solais Spring Ephemeral, 2022, 750ml
Solais is from a new plantation on a flat and sandy plateau bounded to the south by basalt boulders and sand dunes. It’s planted to all fifteen of the allowable varieties historically planted in Chateauneuf-du-pape, but with a far greater ratio of white to red grapes than may have ever existed there. It is utterly captivating. Rosehips and rosebuds and green rosewood. Burnt orange and cinnamon, kir, and crumbled barnwood. There’s a subtle meaty umami character along with purple gooseberries, raspberry leaves, blackcurrants, navel orange juice, and Santa Rosa plums. It’s pretty. but not like you’re expecting.